The Boater

Boaters, also known as Sailors, are as dashing today as they were when first worn in the 18^th century by British sailors.  They are sporty straw hats, usually with narrow crown and flat top and rigid round brim.  Though its dimensions and trimmings have varied with style trends, the Boater possesses an unmistakable appearance of fun and relaxation that is cemented in our subconscious due to its rages of popularity through time.

 

The Boater’s fun-loving attitude was first expressed in the 1880s by women who made them the hat of the decade due to their sporting image.  This was a time when women became active participants in sports such as bicycling.  They wore their light colored straws with a strip of dark trim above puffed sleeved white blouses, dark neckties and dark full skirts.

 

The Italian Gondoliers also adopted the Boater in the 1880s. The Gondoliers trimmed the crisp angles of straw braid with a long doppio natro, the natro usually in navy and red (stripe). This sleeker lined style, with a wider and shallower crown, adjusted the sporting theme of boating to also connote outdoor leisure activities, as a boat ride through Venice elegantly typifies.

 

Like spaghetti, the Boater came to America by way of immigrants.  So great and prolonged was its public appeal that it was given the name “the hat of the people”. Its influence spanned social spheres.  It was a favorite for vaudeville entertainers and their fans. During pre-war times, the Boater was thought to be worn by some FBI agents as a sort of unofficial designation. The hat’s popularity with Classic Hollywood and the American image can be seen in its namesake comedy, “The Italian Straw Hat” (1927).  For decades on, Hollywood stars like Gene Kelly and Fred Astaire further popularized the Boater with American audiences, wearing these dapper hats while wowing audiences with their wit and dance.

 

The Boater’s image undoubtedly maintains strongest associations with gaiety, boats and outdoor leisure.  Its attitude is seen clearly in the lighthearted 1950’s when its popularity was so widespread that it was worn by all.

 

Wear your inner Boater this summer.  Or transform yourself from the inside out with one of the new mini-boaters at www.oloverhats.esty.com.

Who makes hats?

 

Chris Chun blocked this awesome hat for herself in the February Workshop

When I tell someone that I am a milliner, they often cock their head and say “What?”  Or if I tell someone I make hats, they say, “Oh, what’s that called, haberdashery?”  There are distinct differences between hatting, millinery, and haberdashery.

Today the term hatter specifically refers to one who makes hats for men.  A milliner is someone who makes hats for women.  In France the term for milliner today is modiste but originally these crafty designers were chapelliers. 

Early milliners have left few records of their business activities but we know they existed in England since the beginning of the 1700s.  The name milliner came from the traveling haberdashers from Milan, Italy.  They sold all aspects of dress and the English called them millaners.  Soon, all who were making stylish hats were called millaners since the materials for use were imported from Milan.

The term haberdasher refers to one who makes men’s clothing and accessories and is a very old term and of uncertain origin.  It was in use as early as the 14^th century and in the middle ages haberdashery included daggers, swords, Milan caps, glasses, spoons, knives, and much more. The original haberdasher was probably a peddler or a badger rather than a hatter.  This blog delves into extensive detail on the origins of the term haberdasher http://blog.oup.com/2008/08/haberdasher/

Do you want to learn to make a hat?  Find out more about hat making workshops.

The Fillmore on a Full Moon

It was a Saturday night, the full moon shining, as bright as it ever would in this lifetime so they said.  We were spontaneously cruising the Fillmore district in San Francisco, looking to see what was going on.  People come here for music.  Known as the jazz district, this San Francisco neighborhood has a varied 20th century history both culturally rich and bleak.

The Fillmore became a thriving business center after the 1906 earthquake while the more severely damaged downtown was being rebuilt.  In the 1940’s when the Japanese who had settled in the area were sent to internment camps, the empty homes attracted African Americans relocating to the area for war jobs. This initiated the shift that brought about a number of music clubs in the 1950’s.  Places like Jimbo’s Bop City, New Orleans Swing Club, The Booker T Washington Hotel and The Fillmore opened and drew in lightning acts such as Ella Fitzgerald, Count Basie, Duke Ellington, Billie Holiday and Thelonius Monk.  It became known as the Harlem of the West.

African Americans continue to represent a demographic majority, but the character that once made it a thriving Black community also targeted the neighborhood by city officials as a center of urban slum.  Beginning in the 1960’s a redevelopment project began bulldozing the Filmore down, block by block.  This unsuccessful redevelopment project was followed by urban gentrification.  Now Fillmore Street features an extension of Pacific Heights style boutiques and restaurants.  But the music lives on at The Fillmore, The Boom Boom Room, Yoshi’s and Sheba Piano Lounge.

Musicians wear hats.  I don’t know where it started, but I think its partly the continual historic conversation that musicians have with the great masters that came before them, from a time when everyone wore hats.  Partly the hat’s voice of attitude and confidence and it’s sure to keep those bright stage lights out of your eyes.  I bet a hat helps musicians stay focused and keep with that beat.

We sauntered into The Jazz Heritage Center, drawn in by the large becoming photos of musicians shining under track lights.  Once in the the door I sidelined to the glass case of fedoras and pork pies, also gleaming under the lights.  This feature was for another local business, Mrs. Dewson’s hats www.mrsdewsonhats.com, who is a local institution just up the street and known for her wide variety of both men’s and women’s hats not to mention outfitting the former Mayor Willie Brown with his fedoras.  She happened to walk in while we were there, and took one look at me and said, “That’s a beautiful hat your wearing”.  I was tickled to have my craftwork recognized by a woman who has been in the business for thirty years.  She was happy to share her business is up 35% this year.  We all agreed hats are big right now, exchanged business cards and then left the bright center for the night beyond.

Down the street we were lured by the swingin’ blues music wafting out of the BooM BooM RooM, that famous club John Lee Hooker opened in 1997 on the corner of Fillmore and Geary.  The doorman told us Bohemian Knuckleboogie was playing.  We went in and danced to what they toot on their website as “good music for hard times”.  I tapped, snapped, shook and shimmied to the end of their set, after which I reached behind the curtain and thanked keyboardist Jeff Orchard for making our night and signed their mailing list to make sure I could catch them again.  You’re sure to fit in wearing a hat at one of their shows www.bohemianknuckleboogie.com.

On an Indie Mission

There are definitely less people out at shows right now.  This economy is not stagnant though. It’s good to see that people are still coming out and shopping regardless of the doom and gloom from the press.  It is important, now more than ever, to do our part to support local businesses operating with sustainable practices.

I continue to strategize towards the production of new products.  I will have holiday gift items at the two shows I have over the weekend of Dec 5th – Dec 7th, including hair scarves, berets and custom hat gift cards.  I am running a special, 20% off of blocked fur felt hats from my current inventory, as well as custom orders until Christmas.  What an awesome opportunity for you.  I hope to see you out this weekend.

 

Indie Village

Friday Dec 5th

5pm to 11pm

481 9th St, Old Oakland

$5 to benefit Arts and Literacy in Children’s Education (ALICE)

 

Mission Bazaar

Sat Dec 6th 10am to 6pm

Sun Dec 7th 11am to 6pm

The Armory Community Center, 14th and Mission

$5

Feasting on Fashion

This Sunday I’m cooking up delicious food, pouring wine and tea and hosting everyone who wants to share smiles and the hopes for our new president-elect at my home in Oakland for a party.  Try on some scrumptious hats and receive 20% off on any purchases.

O’Lover Hats Open Studio and Harvest Party

Sunday November 16th

2 pm to 6 pm

2558 Scenic Avenue

Oakland, CA 94602

Originally this was going to be a website launch party, but we haven’t settled a design yet, so the process is not done.  The content is ready and I really want it finished for you guys.  Sooner than later, I promise.

 

A couple other events coming up in the next couple weeks:

 

End-of-show party

Seccession Art & Design

Friday Nov 21st 6:30pm to 9:30pm

3361 Mission Street

San Francisco CA 94110

 

Celebration of Craftswomen

The largest Women’s Fine Crafts Show in the US

Saturday and Sunday Nov 29th and 30th

Booth 610

Fort Mason Center, Herbst Pavillion

San Francisco

Gen Art Selects O’Lover Hats as a fresh face in fashion

 

Fresh Faces in Fashion returns to San Francisco for the 5th year in a row. For the last 13 years, Gen Art’s anchor event, Fresh Faces in Fashion, has shown some of the best emerging fashion designers in womenswear, menswear and accessories on the runway and given runway debuts to fashion’s rising stars.

O’Lover Hats will have some hats on the runway with the fashions of OdileOdette and will show the Fall 08 and Spring 09 line at the after party with 3 other featured accessories designers.  I am thrilled to be a part of this event. Come out and celebrate with us.

Thursday, October 30th
7:00 – 8:00pm: VIP Reception
8:00pm: Doors open to general admission ticket holders
8:30pm: Runway Show in Grand Ballroom
9:15pm – Midnight: After Party

The Regency Center
1300 Van Ness @ Sutter Street
San Francisco, CA

 

For ticket reservation please visit http://www.genart.org/

Independent in October

I always feel especially good in the fall.  It’s the time of year to harvest, to celebrate the bounty from all that was planted and tended to in the spring and summer.  I’ve been eating a lot of tomatoes from my back yard, and I haven’t given them nearly as much time as I have to developing my creative work into a business.  I love the fall collection, and will be showcasing it at three places this month. Each show I do often feels like a culmination of my life to date.  But especially in this month that I was born in, I settle into celebrating the abundance that is manifest.  Thank you for being a part of that.  I hope to celebrate with you at one of O’Lover Hats upcoming shows.

Chillin
Saturday Oct 4
8pm-2am
111 Minna
$6

This show features an array of local fashion designers, artists, filmmakers and djs.  Produced by the ever energetic Irene Hernandez, it is a hip, happenin event that brings a heavy dose of the bay area’s creative talent.  I always have a good time, which is why I do this show frequently.  That and Irene generously never charges designers for table space, which no one else does.  It is fun and the people look good.  Come out and flirt.

 

The Bay Area Guide To Independent Fashion Festival
Saturday Oct 11th
12pm-7pm
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts
701 Mission
$10

This is the first event of what appears to be a new series.  I don’t know exactly what to expect, but the lineup of designers is strong and if you are at all interested in the local fashion landscape, it seems obvious that you should come. You can visit www.ybca.org for a lineup of the day’s events and to purchase tickets. Also the weekly wrote a nice small article.  To read visit http://www.sfweekly.com/events/bay-area-guide-to-independent-fashion-1188414/

 

Secession Art and Design Fall Show
Oct 14th – Nov 29th
Opening Reception
Friday Oct 17th (my birthday)
6:30pm-9:30pm
3361 Mission

Secession is a cute design gallery run by a cool chick named Eden Stein.  She loves hats and always includes nice ones in her shows, so come check out her space in the mission.  You can visit with me at the opening reception.  I’ll be wearing my birthday hat (not the suit).

California Roadtrip

The last few weeks I’ve been making straw hats again.  I have a show in Napa on Saturday the 13th and a show in Benicia on Saturday the 20th. Both shows are daytime events, 10am to 5:30pm and 10am to 4:00 respectively.  They are juried for variety and quality.  

I love both these towns and they are completely different.  Napa is full of good art, good food and of course the wine flows from city faucets (for a small fee, you can drink).  It is typically hot and sunny, and you can smell the dirt if you get off the main drags.  The event on the 13th is 32nd Annual Napa Wine and Crafts Faire.  Come visit my booth on Second St and Coombs.  

Benicia is on the Carquinez Straight and seemed to be in the process of regenerating their downtown when I visited a few weeks ago.  There is a good breeze that slices through the straight and gives the air a freshness I don’t have access to at my Oakland studio.  They have a waterfront, a beach and a series of back alleys off of Main Street that draw your eye to the historic relevance this town has held as one of our state capitols. Captain Blythers is a restaurant and bar shanty at the end of Main St, right on the river.  The watering hole is up on the second floor with a great view, the perfect place to wet your lips after touring the works in the 35th Annual Benicia Fine Arts & Craft Fair.  

Hope to see you there.

American Craft Council at Fort Mason

I will be at Fort Mason this weekend, August 15th, 16th and 17th with a selection of hats from the fall line.  My table is in the AltCraft section in the back.  This is a new section for artisans who have never applied to the American Craft Council shows before.  The show is renowned for the quperb quality of work and I recommend  checking this show out.  You will be inspired and amazed.  the entrance fee is 12$.

An exuberant homecoming

I just returned from a family wedding in Southern California.  It was hot and sunny and I was the only one who brought hats.  I suited up three of us in some spectacular straws that are part of my new line.  It continually amazes me by how few people wear hats, even among my fabulous family, many of whom live in tropical climates.  They are the best accessory, practically speaking, and the number of complements they bring is only roses on the cake.  Hats are growing more popular and yet, i travel around and unless it is a fashion event, I often am the only one wearing a hat.  (Like other hat enthusiasts, i have acquired the moniker, hat lady.  This nickname sounds sort of old fashioned for a hip 30 year old, but I love it.  I guess I wouldn’t have taken up millinery if I didn’t have some nostalgia for earlier times flowing in my blood!)  This trip, and so many other excursions has fueled my desire to design.  There are so many heads out there waiting for the right hat.

It is exciting starting a business doing something you truly enjoy.  Many relatives and friends want to contribute their ideas on where I should promote my work.  I am grateful for the interest and I love how it is indicative of human nature’s desire to connect people.  I believe it is true that no one exists in a bubble and that momentum is gained quicker when more mass propels it.  I used to get frustrated when people would tell me where i should take my hats or what I might do to assist my growing business, since I already had a long list of action items that I had not yet been able to pick up and incorporate into life’s grand juggling act.  I am becoming more comfortable with the process of growth and learning to enjoy it, as opposed to being stressed out by it.  I see that my designs are also benefiting from relaxing and releasing into the process.